Modern displays may let you choose from Adobe RGB, Display P3, and sRGB. (The most important thing to be aware of is potential multiple gamut settings for wide gamut displays. It's much easier to leave the display as-is and that's what most people are likely to do. Navigating the display hardware's on-screen menus and controls can be tedious. With that said, that comes at a price in terms of what you may need to do to pre-adjust a display through front panel controls. The closer that the "native" state of a display is, to the calibration target, the better. This has always been true - "then", and "now" - for all display calibration products from all manufacturers. It's always technically "better" to pre-adjust displays to get them closer to the calibration target (color temperature, gamma, and brightness) so that the calibration LUTs don't have as much work to do. Getting the starting color temperatures of the two displays closer to each other, by tuning "front panel" RGB settings, means that the calibration LUTs for at least one, and possibly both, displays don't need as much adjustment, in their endpoints, for color temperature.
#Spyder 4 elite calibration how to update
(I'm assuming you're using the old Spyder3Elite software which had its final update in November 2014, and that also implies you're running on Windows). Not bad, for a 13-year old product that came out in early 2008. It takes a little time to do this but I got my monitors very close to each other. I just finished calibrating my two monitors using my Spyder 3 and there's a setting allowing you to individually adjust the RGB settings to fine tune the color temperature instead of just relying on the canned color temp built into the monitor. So the idea that for digital photography: displays don't benefit from calibration - isn't true.
But for photography, editing, and trying to print accurate color that matches how images look on the screen to physical prints, 6500K is the standard. Their native whitepoint is higher, more around 7300K to 7400K, and that's how they look and measure "out of the box" and without calibration. The "most recent"/"current" sensors for display calibration are the ones that will be the best fit for currently available displays, because they will measure those displays much more accurately.Īs far as the other reply: MacBooks aren't calibrated to 6500K out of the box. In any case: my recommendation would be to get a modern sensor - that goes for display calibration sensors from any color management company. (You go through a procedure where all displays being calibrated and matched to each other are evaluated for the maximum luminance they can support at the target color temperature then the brighter display(s) are adjust down to match the luminance of the least-bright display so that when they're all calibrated, they'll all be at the same luminance). The Elite software for Spyder4 (and later, Spyder5, and now, SpyderX, the current sensor, as well) has a feature called StudioMatch that takes this into account. Unless you're using the Spyder4 Elite software, you don't have the ability to calibrate and match multiple displays as closely as possible to each other, because luminance/brightness is important. Differences between displays based on the calibrated luminance, for instance. If you have a mix of modern displays and they have different (and newer) backlight technologies, then trying to calibrate them with a sensor that was designed years ago for older displays is the problem.Įven beyond that, there are other issues. Spyder4 was released at a time when the most widely used displays were standard gamut sRGB, and display backlights were a mix that still included now-deprecated CCFL. It depends on WHAT kind of displays that you're calibrating.
You're using many-years-old technology from the Spyder4, which has been discontinued for "many" years at this point. I am going to try calibrating the laptop as well but am wondering if anyone has any thoughts? When I told the Spyder to measure the ambient light, the results were even worse. After 3 tries, one of my monitors looks similar to my uncalibrated MacBook and the other monitor is massively different.
I used the Spyder software as well as Display Cal. I have blackout curtains in my room and essentially zero ambient light so I set the Spyder to ignore the room reading and calibrate to 6500K.
#Spyder 4 elite calibration how to pro
I have been trying to calibrate two monitors with a Spyder 4 Pro and am not really having much luck.